Acorn Natural Dye for Wool – Fall Dye Projects

Acorn Natural Dye for Wool

The latest darling in my dye pot is acorn natural dye. The acorns produced the perfect pewter gray shade for dyeing wool yarn. Gray is the perfect neutral shade. It pairs with almost any color, and can be used for baby gifts, toy elephants and dolphins. Gray is perfect for both men’s and women’s clothing and outerwear. Needless to say, I am quite happy with my latest experiments and glad to share my method with you.

Preparing the Acorn Natural Dye

Acorn natural dye is a fall dye that does not require a lot of high heat. I haven’t tried this as a solar dye yet but I think it might work.

The first step is to rinse any dirt from the acorns. I left the caps on the nuts. If you have a lingerie laundry bag, place the acorns in the bag. I used one and a half pounds of acorns, (675 grams), a 5 gallon stainless steel pot when making enough dye for 960 grams of wool yarn.

Fill the stainless steel pot about half way with warm or room temperature water. Add the acorns.

Next, you heat the water to almost simmering. Warmth is needed but boiling is not. Keep warm for up to one hour. Turn off the heat and leave the acorns to soak for up to three days.

I felt that their was enough color in the acorn natural dye bath after 36 hours.

acorn dye

Preparing the Yarn for Natural Dyeing

One factor that is important in natural dyeing is preparing the wool to accept the color. This is called mordanting the fiber. A mordant bath is prepared, often using Alum for dyeing wool yarn.

When using products like acorn natural dye, black walnuts and even onion skins, the dye source is rich in tannins and no additional mordant bath is needed. You can simply soak the wool in warm water to get the fibers wet and ready to be dyed. If you choose to mordant, it will not affect the dye outcome but the color may vary slightly from unmordanted fiber.

Make Acorn Natural Dye for Wool

Move the wet wool yarn from the water and place it in the acorn natural dye bath. Make sure the water completely covers the yarn or wool. Add more warm water if necessary. Also, make sure the yarn is not crowded in the dye pot.

Heat the water again, keeping the temperature under the simmering point. Leave the yarn in the dye bath for up to two days. You will want to make sure the dye bath does not develop any mold, so you might want to bring it to a cool indoor spot.

acorn natural dye
Showing the color compared to undyed yarn

Modifying the Color with Iron Water

Once you see that the yellow color from the acorn natural dye has developed on the yarn, temporarily remove the yarn from the dye pot. I use a powdered form of ferrous sulfate but you can make your own iron solution if you prefer. In my recipe, I added one tablespoon of ferrous sulfate.

acorn natural dye
Color check. I decided to leave it in for another 30 minutes to even the color out.

(If you make your own iron solution water, add rusty metal pieces and nails to a pint jar. Next add one cups of water and one cup of white vinegar. Shake the jar and allow the iron water to develop over a few days. Because it takes a while for the iron solution to develop you will want to start this at the beginning of the process.)

Stir in the iron water or iron powder. Next, return the wool yarn to the dye pot. While you may not notice an immediate change, but the magic is beginning to happen! Meanwhile heat the water to a warm temperature.

After waiting at least 30 minutes, take a look at your yarn. The color will have transformed to a dark gray! While the iron in the water is the ingredient that shifted the color, iron can also weaken fibers, so it’s best to cool the yarn and then rinse completely.

While rinsing, I like to add a tablespoon of conditioner to the rinse water. My favorite is the Unicorn brand Fibre Conditioner.

After rinsing until the water is clear, gently squeeze out the excess water and hang or lay flat to dry. Let me know what you think of the results of the acorn natural dye!

Harvesting Natural Dye Plants

harvesting natural dye plants

Fall is the perfect time to harvest natural dye plants and store for later use. While not all dye plants store well after being cut or gathered, quite a few will yield color just as well later, as they will fresh.

You may have grown some of the plants on this list in your natural dye flower garden. If the plant contains the dye in it’s roots, fall is the time for harvesting. Each dye plant has it’s own specific way to harvest natural dye. When the plant, flower or nut are also food for the wildlife and pollinators, be cautious about harvesting only what you need. Remember you can go back later and gather more. I’ve listed the plants, roots and nuts that I have experimented with. I’m sure you can add others to the list. You can find so much color when harvesting natural dye plants.


I rate pokeberry as my favorite natural dye, although it can prove to be difficult at times. One key I have found is to wait for the plant to mature and gather large amounts of the berries for the dye pot. I normally try to show restraint when gathering dye sources, but pokeberry is definitely a more is merrier type of dye. Also do not over crowd the dye pot. It is easy to miss that sweet spot of red color and end with a ruddy brown or orange. Read more about pokeberry as a dye, and see my recipe here.

Pokeberry can be stored in the freezer. To save space you can remove the berries from the stem, but this isn’t necessary. Make sure to clearly mark the bag as dye plants and DO NOT EAT as many parts of the poke plant are toxic.

harvesting natural dye plants

Black Walnut

These large green balls are hard to miss. If you have a black walnut tree, I am sure you know what I mean. They practically trip you up when you walk in your yard. The squirrels hoard them for winter so be sure to leave some for the furry critters.

Gather the black walnuts while they are green. The color is in the green hull. It yields a deep brown dye that can be changed to black with the addition of some iron.

Store the green nuts in a zipper freezer bag in your freezer. No need to thaw before making a dye bath. As the water warms the nuts will thaw. Read my complete instructions on Black Walnut Dye here.


These showy stems of gold dot the fields in fall. Goldenrod is a beautiful plant that is too often confused with ragweed. Nothing about them is similar if you take time to compare the two plants. This is one of the simplest dye plants to use and store. I break the tops of the stems off, fill the dye pot with water and create the dye.

Storing is as easy as allowing the goldenrod to dry naturally, away from direct sunlight. Store in a box or paper bag in a cool area. I keep my extra goldenrod in the corner of the basement utility room.

harvesting natural dye plants
Golden rod dye on left


My newest darling from the fall pallet is acorn dye. I am now wondering why I waited so long to try this natural dye plant. Acorns drop by the hundreds if you have oak trees. There should be plenty to share with the local wildlife and still make a deep rich dye pot of color.

Extra acorns can be stored in a zipper freezer bag, in the freezer. Each large dye pot requires 1 to 1 and 1/2 pounds of acorns. (this is about 3/4 of a child size sand pail)

There will be lots of greenish yellow color from the acorns which can be modified with an iron water after bath addition to the dye pot. Full recipe post here! Look forward to a lovely shade of gray.

harvesting natural dye plants

Wild Mint, Smartweed and Other Fresh Green Plants

Wild green weeds will give you a yellow color that can be modified to a green with the addition of iron. Storing these weeds is not effective though, so I recommend you enjoy them while they are plentiful. Fall is when the weeds give a last gasp effort at taking over the world. They are opportunistic in many ways, and provide a great late season food source for pollinators. I use the same procedure as outlined in my spring weed dye post using purple dead nettle.

Madder Root

If you are fortunate enough to keep madder plants alive for three years, it’s time to harvest some of the roots and make a gorgeous reddish orange dye bath. Unfortunately, I have always had to purchase my madder root dye, because I can’t seem to keep the plant alive. This is not only a fall harvest but it’s also the perfect fall color. Rich toned and harvest themed color awaits you.

Fall is the perfect time to harvest natural dye plants and store for later use. While not all dye plants store well after being cut or gathered, quite a few will yield color just as well later, as they will fresh.

Dry the roots. Before using some of the product for the dye bath, break up and smash the roots a bit for more surface area. I like to pop the roots into a small cloth bag so I don’t have to strain them out of the water. This way I can often use the “tea bag” of madder roots again if color is still remaining.

Store your dried madder root in a cool dry environment as you would other dried herbal products.

What natural dye products are you collecting this season? I would love to hear about your harvesting natural dye plants experiments.

Three Things Chickens Don’t Need For Winter (and three that they do!)

things chickens don't need

When raising chickens naturally, there are three things chickens don’t need for winter. I know it’s hard to believe that chickens can and do make it through the winter months, even in very cold climates, without our interfering. How can a chicken possibly survive the cold and reach the warmer spring months healthy and happy? Because this happens over and over. Chickens all over the world weather the winter without these three things chickens don’t need for winter. 

What are these three things chickens don’t need for winter?  Heated coops, extra light in the coop, and warm winter clothing. Ok the third item is a bit of a joke. However, based on the popularity of several meme’s floating around social media, you would think that chickens are being mistreated if they aren’t wearing the latest sweater vest. More on that later.

things chickens don't need for winter

What are the Things Chickens Don’t Need for Winter

Heat in the coop is a particularly touchy subject with some chicken keepers. When you live in an area that commonly experiences below zero, sometimes well below zero, temperatures for months at a time, you second guess your chicken’s ability to stay warm. And you might add a heat lamp or other heating device to the coop, because it makes you feel better. I can’t judge you on this. There have been a few times that I have also left a light on to add some heat, because I just felt better doing so.

If you absolutely must add a heat lamp to the coop, make a safer choice. This lamp from Premiere is rated safer and more heavy duty for barn use. I knew the truth was, that they would be fine. But, we somehow occasionally fall into the trap of thinking chickens are like humans, or the family dog. Please be aware of the dangers of adding a hot light bulb to a coop full of birds, straw, and shavings. 

Make a Chicken Coop from a Garden Shed

Truth is, chickens are very well equipped to keep themselves warm. The downy under feathers fluff, trapping warm air against the body.  The outer feathers keep the cold air from penetrating. If the chickens are on a perch, they will cover their feet with the belly feathers. What about the comb and wattles? Won’t they be exposed and possibly have frostbite? Not if the coop is well built, has ventilation at the top and is draft free. The coop should not be air tight. In fact that would definitely lead to frost bite. The coop needs ventilation to carry the warm moist air up and out of the coop. Otherwise the moist air will lie on the surface of the combs, leading to frost bite.  Frost bite looks like black blemishes on the chicken’s comb.

But it gets dark so early!

Adding lights to the coop should be done only for your convenience. If you need to visit the coop after dark to tend to upkeep, check on the flock, or any number of chicken care duties, a light makes the task so much easier.  If you are leaving a light on because you want to simulate longer daylight hours and hopefully get more eggs, that is taking away the natural break a chicken needs in the winter. Will it harm the chicken? Not directly. Will you receive more eggs than the person who does not add light to the coop? Yes.  Is it worth it? That question will have to be answered by you.  Here’s my thinking and I am not offering judgement here. This is a management style topic. If you choose to leave a light on in the coop for higher egg production, go for it.

things chickens don't need

What Do Artificial Lights Do to the Chickens?

I like to live as closely to the natural rhythms as possible. Chickens lay less in the fall and winter for a reason. First, starting in late summer, as the days begin to shorten, your chickens lose feathers in the annual molt. The chicken yard looks like a pillow fight occurred and the chickens look like plucked accident victims.  As the days grow short, if the chickens have eaten enough bugs or other protein source, the feathers will be almost fully regrown. These new feathers are ready to keep them warm during the cold weather, approaching.  Adding artificial light holds the chickens back from getting a natural break. 

things chickens don't need


There’s More Happening than Meets the Eye

Inside your chicken, other things are still going on. Your hens are recovering from rebuilding the feathers. Even though they may look smooth and glossy on the outside, the annual molt can take a toll on the inside. This is why egg production is still off.  Left to their own time table, and with good nutrition, your hens will gradually regain the protein and calcium reserves that they need to produce eggs. Unless they are ill, egg production will naturally pick up again. You will notice this soon after the Winter solstice. The amount of daylight is a determining factor, don’t misunderstand. I prefer to let the natural light shine through the Plexiglas covered windows in the coop. The hens will notice the gradual increase in daylight. And egg production will increase again.  

Clothing for Chickens?

Clothing for chickens is not to be confused with the fabric hen saddles used to protect the hens backs from a large rough rooster. It’s funny to see photos of chickens wearing the latest knitwear fashion, but in real life, wearing a sweater does more harm than good, when keeping a chicken warm. What actually happens is that the sweater will prevent the feathers from fluffing. The fluffing keeps the chicken warm by trapping the body heat near the body.  I know people mean well but don’t put clothing on your chicken to keep them warm. 

chickens in sweaters

What are the Things Chickens Do Need for Winter?

While there are three things chickens don’t need for winter, we should remember the essentials that they do need.

Shelter, nutritious food, and fresh water are the keys to chickens thriving during the winter months. Spend some time cleaning  the coop.  Give the chickens a good thick layer of pine shavings and straw. You can line the nests with clean straw too. Clean out the cobwebs. Check the air flow. Is the ventilation carrying the air up to the roof vents? Tend to the structure, mending holes, cracks and other weak areas of the coop. 

Check out this fun video!

Water is a necessary nutrient all year long. Making sure that your flock has a source of fresh water through out the day is hard when temperatures drop well below freezing.  There are a number of products designed to keep the water above freezing. Submersible water heaters, heated bases for metal waterers and electric heated bowls will all be helpful if you have electric power in the coop. In our coops without power, we pile dirt and straw up around the water bowl sides to insulate the bowl or water tub. The water will still freeze over night but it does take longer to freeze. 

How to Fix a Muddy Chicken Run

Nutrition is very important during times that your flock cannot forage for greens and insects. Feed a quality layer ration to make sure that the hens are getting the nutrients they need to sustain egg development. Supplement with healthy food from the kitchen or leftovers. And don’t forget a healthy dose of meal worms or grubs to add some protein. 

things chickens don't need

Have you decided to use any of the things chickens don’t need for winter? 


things chickens don't need

Saving Pumpkin Seeds in 5 Easy Steps

Should you bother saving pumpkin seeds when you cut into your harvest jack o lantern? When your plans include eating pumpkin seeds or planting pumpkin seeds the steps are similar. The first thing you notice when you cut into the top of your pumpkin is all the stringy, gooey pumpkin guts. You scoop all that mess out and plop it on a pile of newspapers covering the table. Now what?

Chickens and Pigs Love Pumpkin Guts and Seeds!

All those seeds, at the very least, are a great snack for your chickens and pigs. No rinsing, drying, or roasting necessary. The critters will enjoy the treat. If your Jack-O-Lantern doesn’t get moldy, the chickens and pigs can enjoy that too. If you don’t have chickens and pigs waiting for treats from the kitchen here are a couple of things you may want to do with the seeds.

chicken with pumpkins

How to Roast Pumpkin Seeds

Roasting the pumpkin seeds gives you a tasty snack. If you haven’t tried roasted pumpkin seeds yet, let me assure you that eating pumpkin seeds is pleasant! They may look messy, sitting all mixed in with the pumpkin guts, but once seasoned and roasted, they are delicious. It’s a great feeling when you’ve used all the parts of a pumpkin, except the stem! Looking for ways to safely store pumpkin for winter? Instructions are here.

Step 1

Saving pumpkin seeds first requires that you separate the seeds from the goop. This is best done using a colander and cleaning the seeds under running water. You will want to wash off all the pumpkin flesh and strings.

Should you bother saving pumpkin seeds when you cut into your harvest jack o lantern? When your plans include eating pumpkin seeds or planting pumpkin seeds the steps are similar

Step 2

Lay the clean seeds on a layer of paper towel, to drain. This is the first step for both eating pumpkin seeds or saving seeds for planting pumpkin seeds.

Should you bother saving pumpkin seeds when you cut into your harvest jack o lantern? When your plans include eating pumpkin seeds or planting pumpkin seeds the steps are similar

Step 3

Lightly oil a baking sheet. I like to use coconut oil.

Step 4

Coat the seeds with paprika, salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoons of salad oil such as cannola oil.

Step 5

Roast the pumpkin seeds in the oven at 350 degrees F for 15 minutes. Using a spatula, flip the seeds over and roast for an additional 15 minutes. Cool before eating.

Planting Pumpkin Seeds from your pumpkin

Now that we’ve covered eating pumpkin seeds, lets look at the steps for planting pumpkin seeds you saved from your pumpkin. When saving pumpkin seeds for future planting, it’s important to completely dry the seeds, before storing.

Should you bother saving pumpkin seeds when you cut into your harvest jack o lantern? When your plans include eating pumpkin seeds or planting pumpkin seeds the steps are similar

Follow steps above for eating pumpkin seeds but after the seeds are clean, and drained, transfer the seeds to a single layer on dry paper towels. This is now Step 3.

Step 4

Dry the seeds completely, in a single layer in a cool, well ventilated area. Do not place in direct sunlight. Dry for about a month, to make sure they are completely dry.

Step 5

Inspect the seeds. There will be plenty of seeds to choose from and not all will be the best to save for planting pumpkin seeds. Choose the largest and most robust for planting. Store your seeds in a paper envelope, labeled with the year and pumpkin variety. If there are enough other seeds, go back and follow the steps for roasting pumpkin seeds. Storing the seeds in an envelop versus a plastic bag prohibits mold growth. (I learned this the hard way)

Do You Need an Heirloom Pumpkin for Saving Seeds?

When you save seed you want a seed from a pumpkin that was open pollinated or heirloom variety. These are able to reproduce from the seeds. Saving pumpkin seeds from an heirloom pumpkin gives you options to eat the seeds or save the seeds for planting.

When you have a hybrid pumpkin, which is the more likely possibility if you purchased a pumpkin from a store rather than a farmer’s market, the seeds you save will not produce pumpkins. But you can certainly enjoy a good snack from roasting the seeds.

5 Step Plan to Bring Life to Abandoned Garden Beds

Running a Test Germination on the Pumpkin Seeds

Maybe you aren’t certain of your pumpkins genetic make up. Is there a way to determine if saving pumpkin seeds for planting is a good idea? Running a germination test on a few of the seeds will let you know if the seeds will grow.

  1. Choose ten healthy seeds, cleaned and dried
  2. dampen a paper towel and lay the seeds on the towel.
  3. place the paper towel and seeds in a zipper plastic bag.
  4. mist the bag every few days to keep the paper towel moist but not wet and soggy.
  5. At ten days time, check to see how many seeds have germinated. If more than five seeds have germinated you have a good chance of having viable pumpkin plants from your seeds. If there are only a couple of sprouts, get new seeds from your garden supplier.

saving pumpkin seeds

Planting Pumpkin Seeds

Pumpkins need a lot of room. They will also happily take what ever room you give them! Avoid overcrowding the pumpkin patch by choosing a suitable large space. Pumpkins can require up to 20 square foot per plant. Pumpkins also like hot dry weather and lots of sunlight.


Start your seeds outside if you live in a warm climate. If you garden where it’s cooler, especially in the spring, start your pumpkin seedlings indoors, and transplant to the garden, later. Pumpkins take 90 to 120 days to produce full grown pumpkins so look at the calendar and plan the planting or indoor seed starting for your area.

In the designated area, make a mound of earth a few inches tall. Plant 3 to 5 seeds in each hill. Once the seedlings sprout, thin each hill to two seedlings.

Do you try to use all the parts of your pumpkins? What’s your favorite recipe for roasted pumpkin seeds?


Cooking Peaches, Preserved, Baked and Delicious

Cooking Peaches- The Ultimate Summer Fruit

Peaches preserved baked delicious

Summer fruit brings to mind tomatoes, nectarines, plums, peaches and more.  My favorite remains peaches. For sweetness and aroma cooking peaches can’t be beat. Preserving this summer goodness is easy. While you’re at it, save enough to enjoy now with ice cream, fruit toppings, fresh fruit salsa and in baked goods.  

Start with fresh ripe peaches with little to no overly ripe soft spots.  Choose for the delicious aroma, also.  Whether you grow your own or buy from the local farmer’s market, harvesting and buying and cooking peaches, at the peak of the season will give you the best taste and texture.  



Preparing Peaches for Canning or Freezing

Soft fruits, such as peaches, tomatoes and nectarines are easy to prepare for canning or freezing.  Once the fruit has been quickly blanched in a simmering pot of water,then, removed to a pot of ice cold water, the skin slips right off.  The peach often practically splits open for easy removal of the pit.  The peach halves can be canned as is, in a simple syrup or plain water.  Or, you can slice, dice or chunk the peaches.  Add a tablespoon or two of lemon juice or citric acid, to keep the fruit from browning.  Mix to distribute the lemon juice throughout the fruit.

cooking peaches

At this point, you can place the peaches into freezer bags or into canning jars. I use a slotted spoon so I don’t get a lot of liquid in with the peaches I am freezing.   Freezing is easy but has a shorter shelf life than canning due to possible freezer burn.  I use a sturdy zip lock style freezer bag, removing as much air as possible.  I flatten out the peaches into a single layer in the bag, which makes it easier to stack the bags in the freezer.  When ready to enjoy, thaw the peaches in the bag in a refrigerator. 

Using the Skins

(note: if you have farm animals or chickens that you like to treat to your kitchen scraps, be aware that pits and seeds can be toxic.  I do not feed peach pits to my farm animals for this reason.  The skin however, is a welcome tasty treat)

Canning Peaches to Enjoy Later

Fill the jars with the cut up or sliced peaches.  Add the peach juice and boiling water to fill the jar within a half inch of the top of the jar.   Wipe off the rim of the jar with a clean wet cloth. Add the flat lid and the band to close the jar.  

Process canned peaches for 25 minutes for pints and 30 minutes for quarts in boiling water in the Water Bath Canner.   Look for other recipes such as brandied fruits, peach jam and jelly and peach pie filling to use your peaches with, also.  Since peaches are a high acid fruit,(pH under 4.5)  you will can most peach recipes using a hot water bath canner.  

Other High Acid Fruits

Apples, peaches, tomatoes, nectarines, citrus fruits, pears and berries fall into the category of high acid fruits.  It is important to use an approved canning recipe when using a hot water bath canner, because the acidity must be in a certain range.  If you add non-acidic ingredients to the peaches, the total acidity will be lower, making it unsafe to can using a water bath canner.  

peaches preserved baked and delicious

Dehydrating/Drying Peaches for Storing

Peeled peaches can also be dried or dehydrated for long term storage.   I use an electric dehydrator,  but you an also use a sun oven for the same purpose.  Store your dehydrated peaches in an air tight container or mason jar with a tight fitting lid.  Use the dehydrated peaches in trail mix, and bake into cakes, or eat plain.

Eat Fresh!

While you have the abundance of good fresh peaches in front of you, don’t forget the obvious opportunity to enjoy them fresh.  Serve peeled sliced peaches with ice cream, cereal, plain, and keep a few on hand for lunch boxes.  We prefer our peaches cold from the refrigerator but they can sit in a bowl on your counter or table, taking a turn at being a summer decoration, too.  Grab one as you run out the door, for a healthy snack. Cooking fresh peaches into a thick topping is delicious when added to homemade vanilla ice cream!

peaches preserved baked delicous

Baking with Peaches

As you can imagine, cooking peaches is amazing when baked. This will be a delicious way to enjoy the harvest.  Peaches taste and smell like summer.    The cakes, pies, crumbles, cobblers, quick breads and triffles you make with your fresh peaches will prolong the taste of summer.  Preserving the peaches from the season gives you the chance to enjoy peach pie and peach cake for any occasion, all year long.  

The Recipe

When I was on an extended stay in Georgia one summer, when my little Georgia Peach granddaughter was born, I really enjoyed baking for her family.  I came up with a peach cobbler recipe one day, by melding together a few different recipes from the internet search.  Some weren’t quite what I was looking for and some were just full of ingredients that we didn’t have on hand.  I came up with an experimental cobbler that turned out to be very popular!  After all, isn’t this what Grammas do?   One trick I learned while developing the cobbler recipe was to precook the filling for a set time, and then add the top crust batter.  This resulted in a more crispy and less soggy crust on the cobbler.  It also kept the crust from over cooking.  

cooking peaches

Georgia Peach Cobbler

Peaches preserved baked and delicious

for printable version of this recipe click here


  1. 10 – 14 peaches, peeled, pit removed and sliced
  2. 2 teaspoons citric acid or 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  3. 1/4 cup white sugar (generously full)
  4. quarter cup packed brown sugar
  5. 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  6. 1 tablespoon all purpose flour


  1. 1 and 1/2 cup all purpose flour
  2. 1/4 cup white sugar (generously full)
  3.  packed brown sugar -1/4 cup
  4. 1 and 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
  5. 3/4 teaspoons salt
  6. 1/2 cup chilled butter cut into small pieces
  7. 1/4 cup boiling water


  1. sugar – 1/4 cup
  2. 1 and 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  3. 1/8 teaspoons nutmeg (optional)


  1. Using a large bowl mix the peach slices and the citric acid together.
  2. Add the sugars, cinnamon, and flour.
  3. Stir to evenly coat the peaches.
  4. Pour the peaches into greased 2 quart baking dish or 7 x 9 baking pan.




  1. combine flour, both sugars and baking powder and salt
  2. mix in the butter with a pastry blender or two forks.
  3. continue to mix until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs
  4. add the boiling water and mix until just combined
  5.  Remove the peaches from the oven and drop the cake topping in spoonfuls all over the top of the peaches.
  6. Sprinkle the cinnamon, sugar and nutmeg mixture over the whole dish
    1. cool 10 minutes in pan
    2. serve warm


More about Peaches!

Peach Butter – Attainable Sustainable

Peeling, Canning and Drying Peaches – Common Sense Homesteading

Spiced Brandied Peaches – Homespun Seasonal Living

Peach Jam Two Ways – Common Sense Homesteading

Georgia Peach Cobbler – Timber Creek Farm


September is National Organic Harvest Month and to help you make the most of your harvests, In 2015 I teamed up with these other amazing bloggers. Please be sure to check out their tips and more: Rachel from Grow a Good Life – Kathie from Homespun Seasonal Living – Teri from Homestead Honey – Chris from Joybilee Farm – Susan from Learning and Yearning – Shelle from Preparedness Mama – Angi from SchneiderPeeps – Janet from Timber Creek Farm




Peaches, Preserved, Baked, Delicious