Make a Chicken Dust Bath for the Run

chicken dust bathThe flock missed their chicken dust bath and it was all my fault. As soon as the weather cleared and the chickens could go out to free range, they headed right for their favorite chicken dust bath spot. Apparently, I had forgotten this past fall to bring a chicken dust bath into the run or coop. Our fall was warm and the chickens had plenty of opportunity to dust bath their cares away while they free ranged and I did chores. Recently the weather took a turn and we had snow and ice for a few days. Rather than be ingenious, as they have in the past, the flock just waited. In the past I have seen them claim a corner under the nest boxes or some other out of the way spot, and stir up a personal dust bath. This time they just waited. 

And, then the day arrived. I opened the gate to the run and let them free! At last, they had a chance to get away from each other. To run to the farthest fence line and have some personal space.  Yet, they all headed for the local construction zone next door to their coop. The latest coop being built will have a slight overhanging porch area. For now it is the perfect spot to find dry dusty soil for a chicken dust bath. All 23 chickens from this coop huddled together in the same area, flipping dirt and flapping wings. It was a sight to see. 

https://youtu.be/ppH_4TWvMIQ

A few seconds into the video the barn kitty walked up. Three of the hens went on full alert. Then two returned to bathing, leaving Maggie to keep watch.

What kind of enclosure works for a chicken dust bath?

I realized that I better set up a chicken dust bath  in the run or have the risk of mites,and lice on feathers, feet, and dirty looking chickens. I looked around the farm for a large enough container. Since our chickens apparently like the communal, Roman style bath set up, I didn’t want to choose anything small.

I had a child’s wadding pool which works well, but not in the space I wanted it, under a covered corner of the run.  I have seen people use scrap wood, small logs, and old tires to make a dust bath. A cat litter pan is a good choice for one chicken to use at a time. It needs to be deep enough that the soil mixture won’t be easily scattered out of the box every time it is used.  I would suggest at least an 8 to 10 inch depth.  Some people suggest a 12 inch depth

chicken dust bath

My Ready to Use Options 

Last summer I used the child’s wading pool for the chicken dust bath. The drawback was, I never set up an easy to maintain way to cover the dust bath. And then storms happened, the dust bath was soaked, and muddy and unpleasant. It didn’t dry out well, being in plastic container, and I tossed the dust bath mixture out to get it to dry. Way too much effort!  I was determined that I would find a way to build a chicken dust bath under one of the covers in the run.

The wading pool is now being used in the other chicken coop run, where I have more room to keep it covered.  For this run, I chose an empty, shallow feeding trough.  Fits perfectly where I need it and there’s plenty of room for multiple chickens to dust bathe together. I like that I did not need to go shopping for something to use for the chicken dust bath. Reusing what is already on the farm is my go – to method whenever possible.

chicken dust bath

What to Put in the Dust Bath Mixture 

The recommended ingredients for the dust mixture are:

Dry dirt

Builders Sand

Wood Ash (from a fire pit or fireplace) I add a small bucket,  1 gallon approximately, to the large dust bath.  

Diatomaceous Earth – For the large bath I am building here, I added 4 cups of DE powder and mixed it in thoroughly.

The dirt here is very sandy already so I choose to not add more sand to our mixture. The important factors are coming up with a light fluffy soil but not so light that it will harm the chickens respiratory tract!

chicken dust bath

The chickens were in the bath before I even finished adding the wood ash and DE powder!

Do’s

Add dried herbs to the dust bath if you have them. The extra snack while bathing will be appreciated and beneficial.

Don’ts

Don’t add chemicals! Make sure anything added to the dust bath is fertilizer free, chemical free, and pesticide free. Just like our skin, rubbing chemicals into the chickens’ skin is not going to be healthy. If your dirt has had fertilizer added to it, consider purchasing a bag of organic soil instead. 

 

You can use any container you like when building a dust bath. Some ideas for covers, to keep out rain, snow, cats, etc might be a small piece of scrap plywood, an inexpensive tarp, a piece of plexiglass, empty feed bags, or whatever you find! Have you built a chicken dust bath already? Tell us in the comments about your project. 

chicken dust bath

 

 

 




DIY S’Mores Gift Basket is Perfect for Families

s'moresHow can S’mores be the perfect gift idea for the the active family on your gift list? I had this idea a few years back, and have gifted a few of these since. I am sure you have families on your gift list and spend time thinking of just the right thing that they can enjoy as a family.  If your friends are like mine, they have plenty of stuff already. Trying to find a gift that the whole family can enjoy is difficult. Different ages like different types of activities.  But one activity that almost every age can enjoy is a family campfire. Sometimes the campfire has been taken over by the backyard fire pit, or the indoor fire place. All of these will work as a starting place for the DIY S’mores Gift Basket. 

S’mores Gift Basket Ingredients

While making the S’mores gift basket, keep in mind the recipients dietary limits. Adapt the ingredients for the children’s ages.  I shop for the ingredients such as the traditional chocolate bars, marshmallows, and graham crackers. Then I try to think of the unexpected add ins. A bottle of wine for the parents, hot cocoa mix for the younger set, maybe root beer in classic bottles.  The creative parts are up to you. Make the gift basket as elaborate or simple as you choose.  If you want to take it upscale, maybe add these marshmallow skewers or a pound of gourmet coffee.  If you really want to take it to the next level a cuddly lap robe would be appreciated as the family sits around the fire on a chilly evening. 

Now that you have the ingredients pulled together, grab the firewood pieces. I choose pieces of varying size that will fit into a fire pit. Many convenience stores now sell small bundles of firewood if you don’t have a stack in your yard to pick from. Don’t forget a few pieces for kindling tied together with a string. Add some pine cones if you have them in your yard. 

s'mores

Pulling the S’mores Gift Basket Together

Begin to build the basket by arranging the firewood so the basket is balanced. If you don’t have a basket or don’t want to spend money on the container here are some other items you could use to put the gift in.

Decorate a cardboard box or wrap in seasonal paper

A reusable tote bag

A small wooden crate

Reusable shopping bags

Next, start arranging the other items around the firewood.  

Once you are happy with the arrangement, add a large ribbon or bow to the gift.

I am sure the families on your gift list that enjoy the outdoors will appreciate this useful gift that gives them a chance to come together for some valuable special family time. And it won’t add any clutter to their life. 

 

s'mores

 




5 Easy Extracts for Flavoring Baking and Cooking

easy extractsSimple to make at home, easy extracts are a welcome gift during the holidays. The extracts take time to steep and deepen with flavor. Even though easy extracts take minutes to pull together, start them at least eight weeks before you need them for gifting or cooking. This will give you the best result and flavor in your flavorings!

Vanilla Bean Extract 

How to Make 

Most culinary extracts are simple to make.  Gather the needed ingredients and jars. The jars should be clean, not dusty, but I don’t sterilize them. I figure the 80 proof vodka can do that job for me. 

You will need –

Vanilla beans – about 10 to 12 fresh vanilla beans  

80 proof or higher vodka (ask for the least expensive bottle, the extract be the same result)

You can use rum or bourbon if that is your preference. 

Pint mason jar or a decorative bottle and lids

Small extract bottles for gifting or storage

easy extracts

For a pint jar of vanilla extract, use at least 2 ounces of fresh vanilla beans. These should be slightly sticky and moist.  Before putting the beans in the jar, either slice lengthwise down each bean, or cut the bean into smaller, one inch pieces.  This will let the goodness from inside the bean to seep out into the vodka. 

Pour vodka over the beans leaving two inches of space at the top of the jar.  This gives room for shaking the extract as it is steeping.  Cap the jar tightly, give it a shake, and set it in a dark corner or cupboard. Remember to take it out and shake it gently everyday. After a few weeks, you will have vanilla bean extract ready to filter and bottle. 

I use a coffee filter and small funnel to strain the vanilla bean extract.  Using a small funnel for bottling the extract, makes that task so much easier!  I use Boston brown bottles for the vanilla extract. You can get them here. You can use these fancy clear bottles in the picture, too. If using the clear glass bottles, store the vanilla extract away from light sources when not being used. 

Vanilla is one of the easy extracts to make for gift giving.  Add a cute label to the bottle and you have a homemade gift! 

What to do with it – Gift giving, cooking, baking, adding to coffee, milkshakes, and hot chocolate.  

Almond Extract

You will need – 

raw almonds with out skin about ( 15 almonds chopped up)

Buying tip – Buy from the bulk foods section of a natural foods grocery store. This way you can buy only the amount you need.

Vodka – 80 proof or higher

glass jar or bottle and cap

easy extracts

Chop the almonds and put into the jar or bottle. Pour the vodka over the almonds leaving some room for shaking. 

Cap tightly and place in a dark corner or cupboard for steeping. Shake daily.

Filter the extract after two months or more of time. Bottle in brown bottles for gifting or storage. If using clear glass, store in a dark spot to preserve quality.

Use in recipes calling for almond extract.

Lemon Extract 

Another easy extract that is often used in baked goods is lemon extract. It makes up in no time.  The most difficult part is zesting the lemon. (not hard at all!) I used a vegetable peeler to get the skin off the lemon while leaving the pith or white layer, behind. There is actually a kitchen tool for zesting lemons. Either way, take the zest off the clean lemon and place it in the jar or the bottle. 

easy extracts

Add vodka as described above.  This post from Common Sense Homestead, mentions using a teaspoon of sugar in the lemon extract. Add  a teaspoon of sugar. Shake to mix and place in a dark area to steep. Shake daily. Steep for at least 6 to 8 weeks.  Strain and bottle as described above.

Make Other Easy Extracts from Common Plants and Spices

Chocolate Mint Extract 

Many other easy extracts can be made from common ingredients.  Look at your herb garden. Do you have a plant that is doing particularly well this year?  Extracts and tinctures are a great way to preserve some of that goodness.

easy extracts

One year I had an extremely large hardy chocolate mint harvest.  I collected the mint leaves and made a few bottles of this easy extract.  Chocolate mint extract was used in coffee for extra flavor, ice cream, and baking. Think mint chocolate chip cookies! The instructions for chocolate mint extract can be found here.

How to Make My Favorite Easy Extract!

I saved the best for last. Those of you who know me, recognize that coffee is a food group for me. I love the flavor and aroma of coffee. I love coffee ice cream and that subtle hint of mocha in brownies and other chocolate baked goods. So having a Coffee Extract is the perfect way for me to have coffee flavor even when I am not drinking coffee.

Making Coffee Extract 

You will need, coffee beans or ground coffee, 2 cups of vodka, and a glass jar for steeping. 

Use either coffee beans that are coursely ground or already ground coffee. 

Add the vodka as in the other easy extract recipes. Cap the jar and shake. Give it a daily shake.  Coffee extract takes the least amount of time to steep. It is ready for use in as little as ten days.  I recently came across this recipe for Mocha Chocolate Chip Cookies !

Try These Other Ideas for Easy Extracts

Orange, Lime, and other citrus can be made the same way the Lemon Extract is made. Cinnamon extract using dried cinnamon sticks might be an interesting extract. Other nuts such as walnut could be the makings of an extract too. What ideas do you have for easy extracts to flavor baked goods and drinks?

easy extracts

Parting Words

Remember that these easy extracts are made with alcohol. Keep them stored out of the reach of children. Always take personal allergies into consideration because extracts are potent versions of the original flavoring.  Most extracts should be used sparingly for flavoring.  Glycerin is commonly used to make non-alcohol extracts.

If you want to pin this for later….

pin image

easy extracts

 

  




Pokeberry Dye for Wool and Yarns

pokeberry dyePokeberry dye is made from the berries of the pokeweed plant. Pokeweed is considered a perennial herb plant. The stalk is thick and often droops over under it’s own weight and the weight of the berries. The pokeberries grow on stems similar to a bunch of grapes. Don’t mistake them for edible grapes, however. The pokeweed plant has varying levels of toxicity depending on the part of the plant used.  Although the pokeweed is toxic to humans, people have enjoyed eating pokeweed salit for many generations. The dish is made using the young leaves of the plant.The leaves are boiled numerous times to remove the toxins, before being eaten. 

Animals and birds can and do eat the pokeberries and the leaves and it is a valuable source of food for many species. Rodents, birds, deer all rely on this source of nutrients as fall turns to winter.  Pokeweed has been spread near and far by birds ingesting the berries and passing the seeds through their digestive tract.  

Natural Dye From Plants

The rich, vibrant color of the berries juices easily and makes a dye that can be used to permanently color fabric, wool, and yarns. We have a lot of pokeweed growing on our farm and I had been looking forward to trying to make the pokeberry dye and use it to color our natural yarn.  I read quite a few different approaches to the idea before feeling comfortable about dyeing our yarn. The berries have such a rich deep magenta color. Protect your clothes, hands and work surface before beginning to make pokeberry dye.

As with almost anything where natural substances are being used, things may not turn out as planned.  It took many tries for me to receive a green color from Spinach Dye. Boiling the berry dye bath can result in a brown dye instead of a dark red or pink.  Using a mordant to change the pH and the resulting color from the dye bath, is just the beginning of what you can do while using pokeberry dye.  I will write more on mordants later in this post.

pokeberry dye

These are the steps I took to develop my version of Pokeberry Dye.  I referred to quite a few other herbalists and fiber artists information in coming up with my own plan. Most notable was the recipe by Carol Leigh.  It is available as a reprint in many publications. Carol Leigh seems to  have found the best method of getting the purple and red color from the berries to stick to the yarn. In order to achieve the purple, deep red, or fuchsia you may need to leave some of the regular rules for using natural dyes behind and take a leap of faith.

The Recipe for Pokeberry Dye Inspired by Carol Leigh’s Recipe 

Pokeberry dye is very easy to make as the berries break easily and the rich color seeps out immediately. Even the semi dried berries hold their color and when added to the water, re hydrate easily.

I did not remove the berries from the stems as most recipes will instruct you to do. Leaves and debris were removed and the stems were separated into individual stems and berry clusters. The bucket I used to gather the berries is a two gallon bucket and I almost filled it with pokeberry stems and berries.  I know a lot of recipes call for a much larger supply and my only guess is that they are planning to dye a much bigger stash of yarn. 

Place the Stems and Berries into a large stock pot that will not be used for food preparation. Pokeweed and some other dye stuffs are toxic. It is best to keep a separate set of tools for your dyeing work, just to be safe. The pan you use to mordant the fiber can be from the kitchen as usually nothing toxic will go into that pan. 

Do Not Boil!

Start by covering the plant material with tap water, add one cup of vinegar. Bring the mixture almost to a boil but DO NOT  boil the mixture. Immediately turn the heat down to a simmer and allow the berries and stems to release the color. Use an old potato masher to further squish the berries. 

After cooking for two hours, I turned off the heat and let the mixture sit overnight. 

The next day, strain the dye, reserving the dye in a temporary pan or container while you toss the spent berries and stems in the garbage.  Don’t add pokeweed parts to your compost as they have a lot of seeds. The compost bin will quickly turn into a pokeweed garden. 

Carefully pour the dye into the dye pot again. 

pokeberry dye

A Note About Cooking Utensils for Dye Work 

You might be wondering what to use for this activity if I am suggesting that you don’t use your kitchen pots and pans. I sure don’t think it’s necessary to go buy new pans for this. One idea is to shop flea markets and Goodwill type shops for used cookware.  Try to find stainless steel or enamel coated pans. My stock pot for dye is an old granite steel stock pot that we had for years. I also have a wooden spoon that stays with my dye pot, and a fine mesh strainer for separating the plant material from the dye water.  I use an old wash basin as an extra pan for discarding plant material to the garbage or for anything I need while working with the dyes.  A pair of regular metal cooking tongs are helpful when retrieving the fiber or yarn from the hot dye bath.

Preparing the Yarn, Fiber or Fabric for the Dye 

Step 1- The first step when preparing to dye any yarn or fabric is to prepare it to receive the dye. This process is called the mordant. There are a few common methods to mordant the yarn or fabric. Salt, vinegar, alum and rust are a few easily obtained substances. In addition, keep in mind that each one will cause a different reaction when your fiber is added to the dye bath. The metals in your tap water will also play a part. For this dye experiment, I used vinegar as the soaking mordant with a small amount of alum added. 

2 skeins of natural colored 100% wool yarn (400 yards total or 200 grams)

2 quarts of water 

1 cup vinegar 

water to vinegar ratio of 1 to 8

1 tsp alum

spinach dye

Ease the yarn into the mixture of water, vinegar and alum in a non- aluminum pot. Always use care when working with wool and hot water. Do not agitate the fiber or cause friction from too much handling. Felting occurs in the presence of hot water and movement. Next, you ease the fiber into the water and gently push it down to get it thoroughly wet. 

Bring water, vinegar and alum to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for at least one hour. 

Dyeing with Pokeberry Dye 

Ok ready to get to the fun part? 

Remove the yarn from the mordant water and without squeezing the water out, transfer it over to the dye bath. 

Gently push the yarn into the dye bath, until it is completely covered.  Since the yarn is wet, it should sink readily into the dye bath.

Now, add half of the mordant liquid to the dye bath.

Discard the remaining mordant water. 

Begin heating the dye bath. Bring close to a boil, and reduce heat to simmer.  Simmer the dye bath and fiber for two hours. Turn off the heat and allow the yarn or fiber to sit in the dye bath overnight. 

It is important to note that boiling pokeberry dye can cause it to lose it’s red color and become brown. 

pokeberry dye

After the Dye Process 

While wearing gloves, pull the dyed yarn from the dye squeezing out as much excess dye water as possible without wringing the yarn. Squeeze gently and place on a screen to oxidize for at least two hours.  Do Not Rinse the yarn yet!

pokeberry dye

After at least two hours, rinse the yarn in cool water, changing the water until it runs clear. For Pokeberry, at this point, using soap may change the pH and cause the color to change.  Rinse completely and place over the screens again to complete the drying. You need to make sure the yarn is not laid out in the sun, as this will also cause the color to change or fade.  From my readings, pokeberry is color fast for gentle washing but is not light fast.  Do not leave the yarns you dye with natural colors to sit out in the sunlight. 

Using the Exhaust Bath of the Pokeberry Dye 

If you still see rich levels of color in the dye bath, it is possible to attempt subsequent dye lots from the dye you used. I was curious, since my dye seemed to be very dark after dyeing the two skeins of yarn. So, I grabbed a 2 ounce sample of wool roving and threw it in the mordant bath. 

pokeberry dye

pokeberry dye and 2 ounces of roving in a zip lock bag.

I removed the roving to a plastic bag so I could start the dye again for the last two skeins.

pokeberry dye

lighter pink than the first dye

After mordanting the roving, I tossed it into the dye bath. Lots of color immediately reached into the roving. So, I grabbed two more skeins of wool yarn.  I was on an adventure after all. After properly mordanting the skeins, they entered the dye bath with the roving.

After bringing the dye bath up to simmer, I heated the fiber, yarn and dye for a couple of hours. Turned off the heat and left it all to sit over night. In the morning I repeated the steps for oxidizing and then rinsing the fiber and yarn. While there was still considerable color left in the dye bath, I decided not to process any more from this batch. I noticed that some shading on the exhaust bath yarn was visible, so the dye was weakening. 

pokeberry dye

The roving along the bottom was from the second dye. The two skeins of yarn followed and are slightly more orange-red.

Note– I did not use a modifier was used to create the deep fuchsia color.  Only the vinegar and Alum from the mordant phase were used.

pokeberry dye

This is a photo of the first dye lot yarn and the second dye lot.

Future Care of the Pokeberry Dye Fiber and Yarn 

From what I have read, when using a natural plant based soap to clean anything made from the yarn, it will help the color last. Most reports of color fading from exposure to light were not found to be true when using Carol Leigh’s recipe and instructions. I would use caution about leaving the fiber or garment exposed to direct sunlight.  Using alkaline soaps for laundering, does show an effect on the color.

Remember that using colors from nature to dye fibers is a variable pursuit.  Have fun with it and test small skeins to be sure you will get the color you are looking for.  Modifiers can change the color of a dyed product.  

Adding certain metallic substances, such as iron, copper, or washing soda, and salt can affect the color.  It’s a lot of fun to experiment with the colors freely given in nature. 

Read more about various dye plants used at a dyeing party on Homestead Honey.

Looking for various shades of yellow from natural dyes? Check out this post from Joybilee Farm

For more information, I am sharing the titles in my home library as suggested reading.

pokeberry dye




Using Spinach Dye for Natural Wool Color

spinach dyeUsing spinach dye to color our natural wool yarn seemed like a good idea. Natural dyes are easy to work with, but a little time consuming. I had spinach growing in the garden, and more in the refrigerator. It was a really hot Sunday afternoon, perfect for staying inside to beat the heat. Put it all together and you have the makings of a great dye experiment.

My beginning efforts with natural dyes was after reading the book , A Garden to Dye For, by Chris McLaughlin.  Her ideas for gathering and growing plants, berries, seeds, and bark, boiling them to release the color and using the water for natural dying, was not a new idea. Up until the late 1800’s it was the only way cloth had color to it.  It was intriguing and McLaughlin’s book opened my eyes to the possibilities for our naturally raised wool yarn. I was totally inspired and tried a few colors. A couple years later, I tried again. It was an even easier process this time, after having a bit of experience already. My biggest problem is growing enough of any one plant to be able to fill a dye pot. A gardener I am not.

This year our spinach hung on longer than normal. I was about to pull it all our when I had the thought of using it for a pot of dye. Reaching for my dye books, I looked up what Chris McLaughlin had written in her book about spinach.  It could be done!  I did some more research and found that certain mordants would help set the color and cause it to be more permanent and less transient. Cool!  I started a large pot of water boiling on the stove, grabbed the yarn, and got to work.

The color was less than full when I pulled the yarn from the dye to rinse. I had used mordants, vinegar and followed all the steps.  Perhaps even my large collection of spinach wasn’t enough. I wasn’t put off though. It is possible to overdye the wool again. The next day I started over. In the photo below you can see a subtle variation in the color. The darker on the left, the middle was the exhaust bath and the right was undyed yarn.

spinach dye

My first spinach dye attempt. Very little color at all.

The thing to remember about all of these natural plant dyes, spinach dye, marigold, and others is that you need a large amount of plant material to achieve a good depth of color. I went back to the garden and grabbed up all the spinach.  Sorry ducks and chickens and rabbits.  Then I added some spinach we had in the refrigerator.  

When using natural dye, you will get color. It may not be the color you thought, however. I remember when I  tried before. It took an amazing amount of marigold flowers to get a slightly pastel yellow. 

Duplicating a color will also be difficult. I suggest you make notes along the way. This will be your best bet of making a similar color in the future.

Boil the spinach in the large pot for about an hour. Then drain out the spinach, saving the green water.  If you cook your spinach and the wool at the same time you will be picking spinach bits out of the yarn for awhile.  I know this from experience.

Spinach Dye – The Steps I Used

Wet the yarn in a bowl or pan.   I used a 150 yard skein and a 125 yard skein of natural color Border Leicester yarn. The total weight was 125 grams.  I used the larger skein first and dyed the smaller skein as an exhaust bath dye. 

Pre-mordant the yarn. This will prepare the fiber to take up the dye. Boil 2 quarts of water in a medium nonreactive (not aluminum) pot. Add two teaspoons of alum to a quart of water. Note- most guides to dyeing will tell you to use percentage based on weight of goods. Since I was experimenting, I used teaspoon measurements.

Bring to a boil and simmer.  Add the wet yarn to the pot and turn off the heat. Allow to sit in the mordant water for at least an hour.  Do not stir or agitate the fiber in the pan, or it could felt. 

What is a mordant? Mordants are usually metal ion substances that enable the dye to be absorbed by the wool fiber. Alum is the most often called for mordant in natural dying. Spinach dye will yield a yellow color in the presence of alum.  If you want the yellow to deepen into the green shades, add some rust or iron to the water. I couldn’t find anything rusty when I needed it so I used a tablespoon of iron from the farm first aid kit.  It’s fun to try to get the most color from my natural plants as possible. I use alum both in the pre-mordant phase and then add more alum to the dye bath.

While your yarn is soaking in the warm water and alum continue to make your dye.

Making Spinach Dye 

spinach dye

Boil the spinach in a non reactive (non-aluminum) pan.  I prefer to use a stainless steel stock pot. Simmer for one hour. Strain the spinach, saving the dye water. I used approximately 6 loosely packed cups of torn spinach.

spinach dye

To the spinach dye water add 1/2 cup of salt, 2 Tbsp of Alum, 2 Tbsp of white vinegar.

(This is my method, devised from trial and error. Other people have somewhat different methods but all will use a mordant and something to adjust the color if desired.)

Add the pre-mordanted fiber to the spinach dye. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for one hour. Cover the pan so the water doesn’t evaporate!

Add a tablespoon of iron to adjust the color to green.  It won’t be a dark green. Caution! Don’t try to darken it too much by adding lots more iron. What you will do with that idea, is weaken the fiber of the yarn. 

From this technique I received a celery green color.  The second or residual dye gave another small skein of yarn a dark cream color. This is called the exhaust bath, because it uses up the remaining color.

spinach dye

spinach dye

left- spinach dye
middle – exhaust dye
right – undyed

What are my lessons from trying to dye with spinach? 

This uses a lot of spinach.  Next time I will buy cheap frozen spinach from the store and save the good spinach for my salad!

The color will still be muted and soft

In order to dye a large amount of yarn, a great deal of spinach would be needed. 

I need to keep experimenting with the natural colors from plants.

Have you tried making any natural dyes? How did the color work out for you?

 

spinach dye

 

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